Introduction

I have collected some pictures, both old and new, to touch upon some aspects of Japanese society and life here in Japan. As someone from Japan who has lived here all their life, I realize my view of Japan is drastically different from that of people who have recently come here. Regardless, I have enjoyed considering the things that I perhaps had not considered until writing about them.

Clicking on the pictures will enlarge them. I have included word counts at the bottom of each post. I hope you enjoy my journal! 

Politics and History in Japan: Rising Sun Flag

Picture from November 4, 2019. Location: Yasukuni Museum gift shop

I could write a whole book about all the issues regarding Yasukuni Shrine. In fact, I have discussed it at length in several essays. More than the shrine itself, I would like to consider the usage of the rising sun flag and its relation to nationalism. 

Japan's national flag is very simple. The rising sun flag is aesthetically prettier, in my opinion. However, there is a dark history behind this flag. It stands for Japan's imperialistic past and is often utilized in a nationalistic (and subsequently racist and exclusionary) manner. Protestors in front of the South Korean Embassy in Azabu would often have the rising sun flag. The interesting thing about this symbol is that in Japanese society, it is simply not abhorred as strongly as, for example, Nazi symbols in Germany or the confederate flag in the United States. Perhaps this flag does not stand for such extreme things, but in a way, it also does. Japan has not had a pretty past, to say the least. 

There is little shame surrounding the usage of this flag, despite the criticism from other East Asian countries that have a very negative view of this flag. While Yasukuni is certainly a problematic shrine with the enshrinement of war criminals, it still surprised me to see these things sold in the gift shop. Why is there such little stigma surrounding this flag (especially compared to Nazi symbols)? People were there in the museum as if that were "real history" and there was nothing wrong with victimizing war criminals. 

All countries skew history, and Japan is certainly not unique in that aspect. History books often frame the imperialistic conquests of Japan as something much prettier than they were. There is a massive victim complex in this country; while there is no doubt that Japan has been victimized, it has also done great harm in the world. Germany has banned Nazi symbols. What has Japan done but sweep the issues about Korean "comfort women" under the rug? South Korea has voiced its issues with the flag, but it still remains prominent today, whether it be in sporting events or in racist protests. 

This certainly shows how Japan still has a long way to go. This flag inevitably stands as a symbol of oppression for those once oppressed and is used by nationalists in that way as well. It was the military flag, and it continues to be used by the navy. Japan has many things to atone for, this issue being one of the most important. The public needs to understand the real history behind this flag, Japan's imperialism, and the issue of "comfort women". It should not be okay for racists to wave this flag at the South Korean Embassy. People should be outraged, not waving this flag around at sporting events and just shrugging when they see people waving the flag and telling Koreans to "go back to their country". I for one hate what this flag has come to represent, and I wish Japan would take accountability for its mistakes and, let's face it, crimes. 

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Japan and COVID-19: Technology

Picture from June 27, 2020. Location: my room

This picture of me on Zoom with my best friend Mike is an excellent depiction of Japan's current normal.

Due to COVID-19, Japan has had to scramble to move online in terms of work, school, and more. This pandemic has shown how Japan was ill-equipped for this shift—especially the universities. There is something unique about Japan and technology. While this country is technologically advanced, at the same time, we still use fax machines. Again, like with a lot of other things here, there seems to be a duality: sticking with the old and traditional while striving for the new and fresh. 

While TUJ was well-equipped, having had Canvas in place already and Zoom ready to go early on, other universities in Japan have not been so swift to adjust. Hosei, for example, has struggled with huge classes and teachers simply not knowing how to work with the new technology. It appears to be rare for universities here to regularly use online networks like Canvas. Things are generally more old-fashioned. As a result, the move online has been fairly chaotic, as both students and professors alike have attested. 

Though this is true for most other countries in the world, society and norms here in Japan are going to change. Technology will become increasing important. Perhaps even after the pandemic, there will be more implementation of virtual meetings, usage of online platforms, and more. Though fax machines will most likely stay relevant in Japan, more and more people will probably need or at least prefer to have a computer to go to university. Many Japanese students around me (in Japanese university) have noted that they didn't have computers before this, and they had to rush to get one. Much less common are printers at home; that is also increasingly important as schoolwork and paperwork move into the virtual sphere. Though the current norms may not become obsolete, there is no doubt that COVID-19 has changed Japan. 

Ultimately, this pandemic has provided the world with a paradigm shift, and Japan is experiencing it a lot in the technological world. Schools and workplaces have scrambled to adjust to the new normal. Even on the individual level, using technology to connect has become more important than ever before—as can be seen with Mike and me. 

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English Education and Usage in Japanese Society

Picture from October 22, 2018. Location: Iidabashi

Japan is a country with one language, but that does not mean that English is not used. However, oftentimes, one can encounter things like this. I would presume the "dragstore" is not somewhere you can encounter drag queens. Why is this sort of mistake so common?

One thing could be the level of English education here in Japan. Despite the inevitable globalization occurring in the world, Japan still manages to get by without the best English skills. While people in other countries such as the Philippines, India, Germany, and more have, on average, good English skills, Japan still lags behind. That is not due to a dislike of the language—in fact, the usage of English is incredible for a country whose national language does not include English. Train stations have English, shirts have English, and even Japanese songs have English in them. English is seen as something "cool" and generally good. Yet the education system for English is not good. 

Teachers of English in Japan can't always speak the language. One would think the absolute minimum requirement would be speaking English, but unfortunately, many simply cannot properly speak the language. Despite attempts to increase English education (from lower and lower grades), the general levels of English have not gone up much. Despite this, the usage of English and waseigo is incredibly common. Seeing strings of text in katakana is not uncommon either. Most people can read the English alphabet, which is certainly better than nothing. 

However, English education here is simply not done well—though this is not unique to Japan. Grammar is put first, and classes are very structured. Learning English is generally not for conversation but for passing tests. There seems to be a paradox of the admittance of the importance of English yet also asserting that it is not important enough to be taught better.

This system is not likely to change any time soon, and it certainly doesn't help that there are so many English words turned into Japanese that even I (as a bilingual) have trouble with as I switch between the languages. Despite my fluency, I find myself using Japanese English. This makes the process even harder and adds a feeling of "why do I even have to learn English if I'm already using it?" Given the "traditional" side of Japan, perhaps there is a feeling of pride in speaking Japanese and not English—many have little interest in learning English. However, there is no doubt that better education in English would certainly change Japan drastically. 

There is a myriad of problems in the English education system here, but hopefully, it will improve with time. I have had the privilege of working with some incredibly dedicated Japanese learners of English, and it is simply unfair that their years of study at school simply did not help them as much as they should have. This is not unique to Japan, certainly, but that does not negate the fact that it has to improve—it simply is not fair to those going through these classes.

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Diversity in Japan: Being Different

Picture from June 22, 2020. Location: My room

While I presented on being haafu in Japan, there is a lot more to be said regarding both ethnic and racial diversity as well as the simple concept of "being different". While I have resigned myself to be a perpetual foreigner in my own country, that does not stop people from asking certain questions or making certain assumptions about me. However, what I specifically want to consider here is my hair. 

I change my hair color frequently, the bolder colors I've tried including bright red, deep green, mint, purple, and more. That makes me stand out even more than just "looking different" in terms of my height or facial features. While I certainly do not dye my hair for anyone other than myself, I am fully aware of the effect my dyed hair has on society. 

In Tokyo—especially places like Harajuku—it is not too rare to encounter people with brightly dyed hair, both foreigners and Japanese alike. There, I often get compliments on my hair. However, when I go to visit my grandparents in Ibaraki or go into more residential areas, I get dirty looks. People avoid me, perhaps intimidated by the combination of my slightly taller-than-average height paired with the bright hair. 

Why is this? There could be a myriad of reasons, but there is certainly the concept of conformity in Japan. One must "fit in", as was illustrated in some of the readings on early socialization and education. Individualism is not good, though individuality is encouraged. Being too "different" and "standing out" is generally not a good thing. Wearing school uniforms and following certain norms is simply expected. Fashion trends are often followed very closely; when fishnet tights are "in", they are very much "in". Going out into Tokyo, one could easily pick up whatever fashion item is popular at the time. 

There is certainly a tendency for Japanese people—especially younger people—to want to fit in and not stand out much (especially in terms of appearance). Having bright red hair would probably be an issue, in that sense. I have been told many times (by younger Japanese people) that they wish they could dye their hair like mine. When I ask them why they can't, they either say it is not allowed (school rules) or they aren't confident that it would look good on them. Compared to the US where individuality reigns, people are more scared to express themselves here. Appearance ultimately does not matter, and I hope that with time, there will be more people expressing themselves the way they want, whether it be personality, fashion, make-up, or something else. 

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Dogs in Japan

Picture from March 21, 2019. Location: Nasu Animal Park

At first glance, this photo may look like a silly picture of a dog. And it is. But it also isn't. This was taken on a mini bus at an animal park in Nasu. This was the only bus that dogs could also be on. We had to wait for this specific bus to come so that we could, as a family, enjoy our trip. 

Japan is not perfectly dog-friendly, but it is fairly good despite the circumstances. Most apartments do not allow large dogs—my brother had so much trouble finding a place that he could live in with his medium sized dog. However, it is not impossible to live with a dog, even in an apartment. His neighbor owned a dog that was part wolf. 

To plan a trip with a dog is difficult as most places simply do not allow animals to enter—but it is not impossible. For example, on this trip, we rented a cabin that was dog-friendly. She wasn't allowed to enter the bedrooms, but she could roam about in the kitchen and living area, which she thoroughly enjoyed. 

Considering the issues with space, especially in Tokyo, one would think that it would be harder to own a dog in the big city. However, the reality is that there are usually places that are dog-friendly, including stores, parks, and other things. There are plenty of dog parks, and the "home centers" usually allow dogs. This could be due to the tendency for those in Japan to own small dogs. It is much easier to accommodate a toy poodle compared to a Labrador, for example. It is most likely a universal feeling to like dogs or cats (or both), and Japan is no exception. 

What can be said about Japanese society regarding dogs, however, is not just about liking animals. There is apparently a connection between dogs (and other pets) and the declining birthrate. Studies have shown that as birthrate declines and the number of nuclear families does, too, there are fewer and fewer people choosing to have dogs or other pets. Dogs are often companions to children (that is how I grew up), and with fewer children are fewer dogs. Certainly, there are still plenty of dog owners out in Saitama, but it may not be so common to see pets in childless families. It certainly can be noted that with an aging population, taking care of dogs is not easy. They require daily walks and lots of exercise (cats are probably easier in that sense). 

Perhaps this trend is one of the reasons it is not easy to live with dogs here. While it is not terribly difficult to go out with a dog, it certainly is not easy either. As birthrates continue to decline, one can wonder what the fate of dogs and other pets in Japanese society will be. Hopefully there will be more and more people opting to adopt dogs (there are so many of them in dog pounds) regardless of whether they have children. I certainly plan to do so. 

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Family and Early Socialization: Uchi and Soto

Picture from June 17, 2020. Location: my genkan

Ever since I was young, I was taught to take off my shoes at the door (genkan or entryway) and enter our home. Inside, we wear slippers; these are specifically for guests. I knew what was for outside wear and inside wear. This happened within my family, and as I ventured out into the world, this feeling of uchi and soto was emphasized more and more as it expanded past taking off and putting on shoes. This simple custom holds many integral values within it. Inside is clean; outside is not clean. At home, one acts one way, and outside, one acts a different way. 

These values have been passed on to me and many other Japanese children since their early years, whether it be through familial interactions or early socialization outside at preschools. This balance of outside and inside, clean and not clean, and home and not home all reflect the duality that exists in Japanese society. Divisions are important, as shown clearly by the way one must step up to enter our home. Even the slippers show the division: there are indoor "shoes" (slippers) and outdoor shoes. This unique cultural concept is engrained in the Japanese mind; not wearing shoes in the house is a simple idea, but it is only one part of a larger, more important aspect of Japanese society. As touched upon by the reading on early socialization, children have uchi and soto with people as well, and this is done almost subconsciously through socialization and growing up. 

As is with many other customs in Japan, there is much more to it than just the appearance. Something as simple as a genkan can have so many values behind it, one of which being uchi versus soto and their symbolic meanings. I was never aware of the ideas behind such customs, and now it is certainly much clearer how Japanese culture is pervasive in our values and ideas. Not only does this mean Japan as a society can collectively and harmoniously hold these similar values, but it also points toward the importance of seemingly small traditions or customs.

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Technology and Japan: Vending Machines x ガチャガチャ

Picture from October 5, 2019. Location: Shibuya Station

Toy capsule machines, called ガチャガチャ (gacha-gacha) are incredibly popular in Japan. Often, one can find rows upon rows of the machines filled with various figurines, keychains, and knick knacks. This perhaps represents the "weird" or kawaii side of Japan. 

However, the marriage between the ever-famous vending machines in Japan and the toy capsule machines is certainly unique. Having lived in Japan my entire life, I had never seen something like this before. It operates the same way as any normal vending machine: put in some money, press the button for the item you want, and bang! the item comes crashing down. This fascinating machine reflects the innovative nature of Japanese society. There are many "useless" inventions in Japan, whether it be toilet paper on your head to slippers made to be a dust pan and broom. In fact, there are multiple books on useless Japanese inventions, here is just one of them: 101 Unuseless Japanese Inventions: The Art of Chindogu. 

One could consider this side of Japan to be the "weird" side that is appealed to the world, and that would certainly be a good conclusion. However, I think there is yet another side to this multitude of inventions: the collective Japanese desire to be number one or first.

The wonderful politician Renho showed this when the Japanese government was trying to create a supercomputer. There were delays upon delays because by the time the supercomputer was about ready, there was a better one that already existed. In 2016, Renho, who was the Democratic Party's leader at the time, asked the "outrageous" question: 「2位じゃダメなんですか？」(What's wrong with being number 2?). Evidently, there was a lot wrong with being number two, which actually reflects Japanese society as a whole when it comes to technology. Despite conformity being highly coveted, in the technological sphere, Japan does have a desire to be number one. Being number two simply is not good enough. 

Though that surely is not the only reason behind these strange inventions such as the one pictured, Japan certainly attempts to be "unique"—what better way than to be number one? Where else can one find toilet paper to put on your head or vending machines selling small tree figurines?

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Nature and Religion in Japan: Sakura and Impermanence

Picture from April 7, 2020. Location: near my house in Saitama

Sakura or cherry blossoms are an annual event in Japan. With hanami as a large event in the spring, anywhere with a cherry blossom tree and an area below to sit is a potential location for a gathering. What is the appeal of these blossoms? They bloom every year, and most people living in Japan have seen them at least once in their lives.

The importance of cherry blossoms can be attributed to something cultural: the focus on impermanence or mujō. Mono no aware can be translated to "the pathos of things"; it refers to the awareness of impermanence. Originally, the phrase comes from the Heian Period but became more widespread during the Edo Period. 

Cherry blossoms only bloom for about a week, making them a short-lived beauty. They are not something considered especially beautiful due to their appearance, though they are certainly beautiful. Their beauty is held in their impermanence and their depiction of mono no aware. 

Most people enjoying cherry blossoms are not fully aware of the history behind the concept: mujō comes from Buddhism, the idea that nothing last forever and all is subject to change. Said simply, understanding this is a step towards enlightenment.

Today, though most people are not aware of this and actively considering impermanence, life, and death, the reality is that most people in Japan, through their attraction to the fleeting beauty of the cherry blossoms, are collectively engaging in the enjoyment and appreciation of the impermanent. This originally religious (or philosophical) concept is simply a part of Japanese culture today. This can be seen in a myriad of concepts, whether it be the Confucian influence that has resulted in senpai and kohai or the idea of social harmony.

 

Ultimately, cherry blossoms are just one prominent example of religion having a lasting effect on Japanese society and culture. Considering the focus on nature in Shinto, it is understandable that cherry blossoms are the most apparent and perhaps most popular example of impermanence and its value and beauty. 

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Tourism and Underrepresentation: Horyūji and the "Traditional Japan"

Picture from August 22, 2019. Location: Horyūji, Nara. 

Nara is a place, like Kyoto, that has the "traditional Japan". Japan is not just the urban thriving center that is Tokyo: Japan is also rural, touristic, and more. At Horyūji, a Buddhist temple, one can encounter many different types of people, some being foreign tourists and others perhaps Japanese sightseers. The temple is one of the oldest surviving wooden structures as it is from the Asuka period (mid-6th century to early 8th century). 

When one thinks of Japan, the predominant views are Tokyo or temples and shrines. There is the urban, modern Japan and the more traditional, old Japan. Though there are things in between and things that are a mix of the two, that does not negate the fact that to the outside world, those two make up Japan. 

The reality is that Japan caters to that international view of Japan through the tourist industry. Today, Kyoto and Nara (to a lesser degree) are filled with foreign tourists trying to get a glimpse of famous Japanese sites. When one thinks of Japan, several things most likely come to mind: sushi, trains, temples, etc. An image like the one above could easily be one of the the types of things that flash in one's mind's eye. Japan takes advantage of this side as well as the "weird" (think: Akihabara, anime, crazy food) side of the country. Many advertisements online depict scenes like this one or cherry blossoms and Fuji-san. 

Traditional Japan is only one facet of Japan, but it is a side that stands out to the world. Perhaps this is reflective of Japanese society: it is diverse, yet only some things are focused on. Certainly, a parallel can be drawn between these representative Japanese locations and representative Japanese people: salarymen, rice farmers, and more. There is more to Japan than Tokyo and temples, and there is more to Japanese society than salarymen and rice farmers. 

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